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New: Delage


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Photo by Jeannette W. yelp.com

Showing remarkable culinary range, Chikara Ono has unveiled Delage, a prix fixe concept featuring quality sushi and seasonal small plates. Over eight courses, we enjoyed an aesthetic journey of pristine fish, rare purple duck, and precious baby corn, with silk as sweet as candy. One particularly revelatory course consisted of thick slices of wild salmon on a block of Himalayan salt alongside plank-charred Miyazaki beef; they dissolved like seared foie gras. Incorporating ripe stone fruit throughout the meal, Delage’s Michelin-starred sushi chef, Masa Sasaki, proved adept at texture, contrast, and presentation, creating a well-paced and buoyant experience. Our final course brought blood-red strawberry ice cream with a chiffo-nade of mint. The cozy dining room is utterly simple, with a retro American touch.

536 Ninth St., (510) 823-2050, delageoakland.com. Dinner Tues.–Sat.

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