First Bite: Salt Craft is an Alfresco Paradise
The Pleasanton spot deliciously reinvents the restaurant wheel.
The remarkably innovative Matt Greco has created a near waiter-less fine-dining restaurant with all-outdoor seating. (You’re welcome, Fido!) Salt Craft, opened last week in a former house—the interior is now one big kitchen and bakery—with a modern American menu that appears pricey until you realize tips are taboo.
A sweet white-corn polenta loaded with asparagus and topped with two plump poached eggs makes for a comforting breakfast. Thick, fat-capped, house-made bacon—it melts in your mouth—and sublimely sticky morning pastries make it wicked.
Greco, a young father who left the East Coast to become the executive chef at The Restaurant at Wente Vineyards, is visibly energized by his new project, changing protocols on the fly as the concept takes shape.
On Saturday night all was smooth; Greco’s signature shaved lamb pastrami with pickled onions encircled thick triangles of toasty house-baked marbled rye. A slow-roasted pork loin was nearly as tender as the accompanying prunes and butter beans, while squid-ink pasta with clams, although a tad too sea-salty, had an amazing chew.
377 St. Mary’s St., Pleasanton, (925) 425-9716, saltcraftpleasanton.com.
UPDATE: Salt Craft with be closed until Saturday, April 21, when the restaurant will reopen for daily dinner service.