First Bite: Come for the Tacos, Stay for the Tequila
Danville’s Cocina Hermanas serves up stylish Mexicana fare.
Elevated tacos at depressed taqueria prices are reason enough to hit the summery wraparound patio at Cocina Hermanas, a brand-spanking new Mexican-inspired hacienda situated in a prime corner across from the owner’s original Danville restaurant: the seasonally committed Danville Harvest.
Cocina’s rare tequilas and signature cocktails, however, along with its tasteful bar and dining room and platillos principales (which can run four times the cost of a pair of steak tacos), are all seductive. We opted for rich, plump, and long-braised lamb tacos as an “appetizer” and then overindulged in flautas—crispy tortilla rolls stuffed with creamy shrimp and crab—and an order of dense and smoky mole-like chicken enchiladas. Both plates came with mounded sides of beans and mushy poblano rice, which were tasty and filling but haphazard.
The kitchen had no fish for ceviche on a Sunday visit (a good indication of a commitment to freshness), so we opted for grilled corn on the cob slathered in chipotle crema, lime, cotija cheese, and cilantro—a dish that will be irresistible as soon as summer kicks in.
501 Hartz Ave., Danville, (925) 725-4161, cocinahermanas.com. Lunch and dinner daily.