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First Bite: Oakland’s Ohgane Comes to Concord

Head here to get your fill of Korean BBQ.


Nicholas Boer

It’s easy to get overwhelmed with Ohgane’s all-you-can-eat Korean BBQ ($26.95 per person). You have some dozen banchan to consider the minute you sit down at the new Concord eatery. Those spicy small plates (the traditional kimchi and chili-flecked fish cake were our favorites) are the perfect counterpoint to the slabs of meat brought to the table for you to grill.

While the rib eye steak and pork belly are eye-popping, it’s the classic Korean-style short ribs that steal the show—especially when pulled from the bone, folded into a lettuce wrap, and spiked with a swipe of chili (or mung bean) paste. While the thawed seafood selections (baby octopus, head-on shrimp, green mussels on the half shell) are not for everyone, veggies like zucchini and mushrooms are fresh and especially delicious when grilled with sesame oil. From the stews and side dishes, be sure to ask for sweet corn cheese and spicy glass noodles (jhap chae).

If you don't want to cook your own food, you can order from the more refined a la carte menu; the handsome dining room has a spacious row of tables without built-in grills. Either way, you won't have to do the dozens of dishes. Or clean the grill.

1671 Willow Pass Rd., Concord, (925) 798-9292, ohgane.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

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