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First Bite: San Francisco’s MoMo’s American Bar and Grill Opens in Walnut Creek

The sophisticated sports bar and restaurant is a Giant hit.


Nicholas Boer

After sitting empty for two years, the giant space that was formerly McCovey’s Restaurant has reopened as MoMo’s American Bar and Grill. It’s not much of a stretch to say the change is a home run: Momo’s is to McCovey’s as AT&T Park is to Candlestick Park—warmer, sleeker, and with better food.

The new Walnut Creek restaurant serves comfort fare and has a variety of local beers on tap—available during happy hour for just a buck and a fiver in the expansive bar and lounge. We loved the stacked gem lettuce leaves in creamy Caesar dressing, and the meaty lamb burger with peppery arugula and sweet apricot chutney. The hearty smoked salmon flatbread with pesto and MoMo’s classic petrale sole piccata were a good fit for the dining room’s more upscale vibe.

The original MoMo’s, located directly across from AT&T Park in San Francisco, can’t compete with this spin-off’s main attraction: a helicopter-sized propeller fan turning lazily in a blue “sky”—a huge circular recess in the tall ceiling. Judging by the many patrons drinking and laughing that night, it was only one of MoMo’s many big fans.

1444 California Blvd., Walnut Creek, (925) 935-1545, momoswc.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

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