First Bite: Goodbye Brisket, Hello Breakfast
Sherry’s Kitchen supplants a barbecue chain in Pleasant Hill.
While it’s always hard to see a BBQ spot close—even a bland one with 500 locations—Dickey’s Barbecue Pit’s demise and resurrection as Sherry’s Kitchen, a cute-not-tacky independent breakfast and lunch spot, is to be celebrated.
Perhaps the recent surge of positive reviews (from Yelpers far and wide) is suspect, but they were compelling enough for me to fall out of bed early on a Sunday morning to make the bleary-eyed drive to a little strip mall in Pleasant Hill, some 30 miles away from my home.
Spotless, with a diner-style counter and a small-town ambience (note the windmill weather vane), Sherry’s features an all-American menu—including a Hawaiian loco moco plate with super-slick gravy—that goes beyond stuffed omelets and pancake stacks: Witness quiche Lorraine, bratwurst and eggs, and bagels with lox. A myriad of Benedicts, including our choice starring Sherry’s own crisped corned beef, bring expertly poached eggs napped with a light and shimmering hollandaise. Paired with a big mug of bold joe from Vallejo’s Moschetti roasters, the dish gets a thumbs up, particularly since the hash browns were spot on: golden on the outside, creamy in the middle, and begging for hot sauce and ketchup. One dish fell short: a linguiça scramble with overcooked eggs and under-seared, under-spiced sausage and bland chunks of potatoes.
But, with that caveat, and while glossing over the lunch salads and sandwiches, I’ve got to say, “Goodbye brisket, hello breakfast!”
2634 Pleasant Hill Rd., Pleasant Hill, (925) 476-5224. Breakfast and lunch daily.