At the Bar

Half Time

With visions of holiday revelry still dancing in our heads, January is a month of moderation for many of us. This cutting back can take many forms, none more delightful, we think, than the half-bottle of wine. Much more prevalent in Europe, half-bottles have always been a tougher sell in the bigger-is-best United States.

But they are slowly catching on: When Netherlands native Eric Janssen took the helm at Danville’s Amber Bistro in 2006, the only half-bottle on the list was the ever-familiar orange-labeled Veuve Clicquot champagne. Now, he offers one of the area’s widest and most impressive selections of these diminutive gems. “The feedback has been absolutely positive,” Janssen says. “Half-bottles are a friendly way to try a wine and not risk too much.” Here are some highlights of Amber Bistro’s 375-milliliter offerings.

2005 Bernkasteler Lay Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Dr. Loosen Riesling Kabinett This off-dry Riesling sports bright acidity and minerality with appealing green apple notes. Perfect for spicy foods.

2005 Hyde Vineyards Carneros Selene Sauvignon Blanc “This is an outstanding Sauvignon Blanc,” says Janssen. On the lighter side—nicely balanced citrus without in-your-face grapefruit.

2004 Lynmar Russian River Valley Quail Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir A smooth, surprisingly full-bodied Pinot Noir. The winemaker notes “aromas of dark cherry and rhubarb.”

2005 Martinelli Russian River Valley Giuseppe and Luisa Zinfandel Janssen loves this wine’s balance of acidity and fruit. Deep ruby color, a big, sweet nose of ripe figs and strawberry, and undertones of mincemeat and peppery spices.