Diablo Dining Guide
ALAMO
Alamo Creek restaurant
3206 Danville Blvd.
(925) 838-1158
Small is the operative word for this engaging newcomer. Alamo Creek
Grill has only five tables inside and a few more outside. Prices are
just as diminutive. The most expensive entrée, a sautéed beef, chicken,
and shrimp combo, rings up at $11.95. Bottles of wine sell for what
some restaurants charge for a single glass. But even at such modest
prices, the food is big on taste and portion size. The restaurant
serves Middle East–leaning Mediterranean dishes like dolmas and grilled
ground beef kebabs, both of which are excellent, as are the sautéed
scallops. Also good are the Caesar salad, prawn pasta, and veal
scaloppine. All entrées are served with a choice of homemade soup or a
green salad. Friendly service and a casual neighborhood atmosphere add
to our conclusion that good things can, indeed, come in small packages.
Dinner Tues.–Sun. ð‘ ð· $.
Alamo Palace Chinese Restaurant
120-C Alamo Plaza
(925) 820-1715
This
narrow slip of a restaurant serves both Mandarin and Szechuan cuisines,
with an emphasis on traditional dishes such as honey-walnut prawns and
hot, spicy stir-fried eggplant or Chinese long beans. For lovers of mu
shu dishes, there are versions made with beef, chicken, shrimp, or
vegetables. A thriving takeout business hums both days and evenings.
Lunch Tues.–Sat., dinner Tues.–Sun. ð‘ $.
Cherubini Coffee House
37 Alamo Square
(925) 743-0824
Tucked
into the back of Alamo Square, this is a charming café and antique
furniture shop. Decorated in the style of a 19th-century apothecary,
Cherubini is a gathering spot for regulars to relax with a latte, read
the daily paper, or check out the antiques for sale displayed around
the room. Specialty coffees, breakfast rolls and pastries, sandwiches,
soups, and salads are the comforts of the simple menu. Breakfast daily,
lunch Mon.–Sat. ð‘ ð· $.
Courtyard Café
3195 Danville Blvd.
(925) 838-1661
Set
among redwoods off the busy main drag, this place feels at times like
the center of the action in Alamo. Regulars gather to visit and eat
breakfast or lunch, poring over a menu that seems large
for such a cozy place. Breakfast selections range from waffles to a
Mexican omelette; lunchtime offerings include a wide array of fresh
salads, sandwiches, and hamburgers. Breakfast daily, lunch Mon.–Sat. ð‘
ð· $.
Don Jose’s
3168 Danville Blvd.
(Stone Valley Shopping Center)
(925) 743-8997
Don
Jose’s has carved out a pleasant patio in the Stone Valley Shopping
Center, with a vista of trees along the creek behind it. Menu
selections are mostly traditional—enchiladas, flautas, fajitas, and
tamales—with daily lunch and dinner specials. One interesting crossover
is what the staff calls a “Mexican pizza,” on the menu as “malinchi.”
It’s a hybrid tostada-pizza with a choice of meats, plus tomatoes, sour
cream, guacamole, and cheese on a crisp flour tortilla. Lunch
Mon.–Sat., dinner daily. ð‘ ð· $–$$.
Jitr Thai
115-C Alamo Plaza Shopping Center
(925) 838-5583
The
East Bay abounds with Thai restaurants that offer good but predictable
food. Alamo’s Jitr Thai is different. Sparkling fresh ingredients and
fresh preparations set this local favorite apart. Chef Penny Vetsri,
who cooked at San Francisco’s venerable Thep Phanom, prepares food with
a restrained elegance. The eggplant and shrimp salad is emblematic of
what can make Thai food so appealing. The tender bits of rock shrimp
and non-greasy eggplant flavors are electric, delicate, and exotic all
at once. The special Peking-style duck wrapped in thick rice-flour
"tortillas" is another satisfying, inventive starter. For entrées, look
for the Indian-influenced masamam curry with plump sea scallops,
shrimp, and rice pancakes. Desserts stand out, too. Lunch Mon.–Fri.,
dinner daily. ð‘ $.
RISTORANTE Forli
3160-B Danville Blvd.
(Stone Valley Shopping Center)
(925) 820-1711
Hearty
Italian fare is the formula for success at this long-standing Alamo
restaurant (known for many years as Loretto’s), with a menu anchored on
fresh fish, steak, and pasta. A good destination for the extended
family dinner, Forli has a few large tables and booths big enough to
squeeze in several generations. If you’re looking for a quiet dinner
for two, fret not; they can accommodate. Budget-minded fine diners
should take note that several signature dishes are offered as
early-bird specials each evening before 6 p.m. And on Friday and
Saturday evenings, East Bay groove-setters can dance a few hours of the
night away to live music in the cocktail lounge. Lunch Mon.–Fri.,
dinner daily. ð‘ $$.
ALBANY
Beauregard’s California Bistro
1373 Solano Ave.
(510) 526-7200
Solano
Avenue’s stable of hearty reliables has a new addition: Beauregard’s.
Warm and comfortable, the 80-seat bistro, with its wood-burning oven
and earnest waitstaff, replaces the very old and cold Persian-flavored
Khayyams. A large menu hits all the bistro bases, from pizzas to pork
chops, and thrives on the love of fresh ingredients. To run
hand-in-hand with the chef, start with the elegant smoked salmon
pizzetta and follow it with one of the day’s three to five specials. If
there’s a weakness here, it’s that some of Beauregard’s bold flavor
combinations—like an appetizer mixing fried goat cheese with olive
tapenade, sweet peppers, and sun-dried tomatoes—can feel a bit
overworked. But in the land of safe-play establishments, it’s nice to
see someone cooking with gusto. Lunch Tues.–Sat., dinner Tues.–Sun. ð‘
$$.
FONDA
1501A Solano Ave.
(510) 559-9006
A fun addition to the East Bay’s hopping
“small
plates” scene is Fonda, where chef August Churchill serves tasting
portions of seductive Mexican antojitos, or “little whims.” Churchill
creates temptations such as fresh corn tamales served with queso fresco
and Early Girl tomato salsa, squash flowers filled with goat cheese,
and vuelve a la vida, a Veracruz-style seafood cocktail brimming with
sparkling fresh chunks of Dungeness crab, shrimp, and bass. The vibrant
décor and open kitchen behind the handsome
bar make for a warm, relaxing environment in which to enjoy the outstanding house cocktails. Dinner daily. ð‘ $$ www.
Nizza La Bella
825 San Pablo Ave.
(510) 526-2552
The
food is the star at Nizza La Bella, a cozy, sophisticated
French-Italian bistro that’s been a magnet for locals since it opened
in 2000. The menu is rich with Provençal renditions of Italian dishes,
like the pasta papillon smothered in a light tomato sauce; innovative
seafood plates, like fire-roasted mussels with a thick dollop of aioli;
and heavier entrées, like the traditional bouillabaisse of shrimp,
mussels, clams, and rockfish. A busy zinc bar, mirror-lined walls, and
an extensive drink list all contribute to the restaurant’s clever
Mediterranean ambience. Prices are set surprisingly low, perhaps to
coax customers out to the somewhat remote location on hushed San Pablo
Avenue. Dinner daily. ð‘ ð· $$–$$$.
Solano Cellars
1580 Solano Ave.
(510) 525-9463
Wine
shop by day, restaurant by night. In the back of Solano Cellars are an
L-shaped bar, walls of dark blue and red, and handfuls of locals
enjoying French-inspired small plates and wines by the glass. Seated at
one of the tables, you feel as though you’re in a friend’s home,
especially when chef Jennifer Dobrowolski delivers your food. While
ingredients are top-notch, preparation is too light-handed—a beet,
walnut, and goat cheese salad gets neither salt nor vinaigrette. A beef
stew, though finished with lovely, fresh horseradish, needed more time
on the stove. The seasonal menu changes weekly, however, and local
legend says the cassoulet is fantastic. Wines are poured in tastes,
glasses, and flights, and you can buy what you taste from the shop
after dinner. Dinner Wed.–Sat. ð‘ $$.
Benicia
CAPTAIN BLYTHERS
123 First St.
(707) 745-4082
Steinbeck
fans and seafood lovers should check out Captain Blythers, a
surf-and-turf restaurant with an East Coast feel. If you’re feeling
fishy, the abundance of options include blackened snapper, grilled
halibut, filet of sole, and various combinations of shrimp, prawns, and
scallops. Carnivorous sorts tend to choose the prime rib, filet mignon,
or rib eye steak. The upstairs bar is a good place to lift a frothy mug
with your mates, and snack on crab cakes, clam strips, or fried
zucchini. The restaurant’s location at the end of First Street gives
you a chance to stretch your peg leg and walk along the
under-trafficked Benicia waterfront. Lunch and dinner daily. ð‘ $$–$$$.
PETALS BAR AND RESTAURANT
639 First St.
(707) 748-5695
When
Kay Loyola’s devoted customers at Sala Thai asked her for more
restaurant space just for her fabulous appetizers, she went one better.
She found a spot down the street from her popular Thai restaurant and
opened Petals. Specializing in Pan-Pacific fusion cuisine, Petals
offers a relaxed, sophisticated dining experience. Entrées such as
stir-fried California halibut with dirty rice, grilled rack of lamb
with a salsa made from Asian fruits, and Cantonese roasted duck are
outstanding. Loyola likes to keep things fresh and seasonal,
incorporating edible flower petals into each dish and changing the menu
every other week. Jazz trios and a pianist add to the atmosphere on
Saturday evenings. Lunch and dinner, Tues.–Sat. ð‘ ð· $$ www.
Sala Thai
807 First St.
(707) 745-4331
Located
on Benicia’s charming, small-town main drag, Sala Thai fits in well
with the town’s homey, comfortable ambience. Sala’s food, on the other
hand, is far from ordinary—the restaurant offers some of the best, and
freshest, Thai food around. Both the Thai barbecued chicken and the
emerald curry prawns should satisfy even the most desperate Thai
cravings. For a starter, give the beef salad or the satay (grilled
skewers of chicken, beef, or pork) a whirl. Don’t forget to wear your
best socks—most dining at Sala is sans shoes. Lunch Mon.–Fri., dinner
Tues.–Sun. ð‘ $–$$.
Venticello’s Ristorante Italiano
911 First St.
(707) 747-5263
Part of the appeal of a stroll down First Street in Benicia is the
diversity of its dining options. Adding to this appeal is Venticello’s.
This stylish restaurant serves classic Italian fare. While the menu
doesn’t hold many surprises, many dishes are prepared with a refreshing
lightness that
lets the individual ingredients shine. Stuffed eggplant, salads,
homemade soups, and pastas are all good. It’s only when the kitchen
strays into non-Italian territory that some dishes
suffer. There’s a small but inviting outdoor
seating section, perfect for watching life go
by on a warm night. And for lingering with
dessert, the classic tiramisu is creamy, rich, and big enough to share. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat., Sunday brunch. ð‘ ð· $$$.
Berkeley
AJANTA
1888 Solano Ave.
(510) 526-4373
Not
only does owner and chef Lachu Moorjani make sure Ajanta’s beverage
selection is up-to-date and interesting, with offerings like Indian
Chenin Blanc and Ayinger double bock beer, his food is a scrumptious
collision of authentic Indian cuisine and local, seasonal produce.
Vegetarian samosas are cakey, clean, and rich, with evenly spiced
potato and pea. Palak Kofta brings expertly molded balls of spinach and
bread crumbs swimming in a cream-tinged curry. During spring, asparagus
spears are cooked in the tandoor oven; drizzled with a chili-flecked
yogurt sauce, they arrive at the table in a steam of cardamom and
clove. If Indian food in the East Bay gets better than this, we haven’t
found it. Lunch and dinner daily. ð‘ $$.
Bendean
1647 Solano Ave.
(510) 526-3700
Don’t be
surprised to find eight-year-old Ben, son of chef-owner Lance Dean
Velasquez, busing your table or playing when you visit this
neighborhood restaurant named for him and Dad. Do roll up your sleeves
and enjoy Dean’s way with simple dishes, from cauliflower soup touched
with truffle oil to braised short ribs with potato purée and oyster
mushrooms. Look for California cuisine and occasional Mediterranean and
Latin dishes. Not to be missed: Ben’s Supper, a three-course meal
available from 5 to 6 p.m. for $12. Such a deal! Dinner daily ð‘ $$–$$$.
Bette’s Oceanview Diner
1807-A Fourth St.
(510) 644-3230
This
ever-packed and cozy diner is like home to its regulars, and a slice of
motley Berkeley life for out-of-towners. The wait can be long, and the
service crisp, but you won’t leave hungry or unsatisfied, especially
after tearing into huevos rancheros, soufflé pancakes, or a wedge of
pie à la mode. Breakfast and lunch daily. ð‘ $.
BISTRO Liaison
1849 Shattuck Ave.
(510) 849-2155
This
Shattuck Avenue bistro, just down the street from the heavy hitters in
Berkeley’s famed “gourmet ghetto,” offers unpretentious French fare in
a friendly atmosphere. Executive chef and proprietor Kenneth Kniess
formerly starred as chef de cuisine at the popular Left Bank
restaurants in Larkspur and Menlo Park.
Liaison has a similar French-but-not-fussy
feel, and the menu features hearty favorites
like beef Burgundy stew, niçoise salad, and French onion soup, as well
as several vegetarian choices. A wine list with numerous Northern
California and French selections complements the fresh cuisine. Lunch
and dinner daily, Sunday brunch. ð‘ ð· $$–$$$.
CAFÉ CACAO
914 Heinz Ave.
(510) 843-6000
Executive
chef Arnon Oren, formerly of Chez Panisse, has brought a clean
California sensibility to a small menu of seasonal dishes of wild local
salmon, delicate verdant salads, and seared duck breast. You can guess
the main theme for dessert at this restaurant at the Scharffen Berger
chocolate factory, but chocolate works its way into the savory dishes
as well. At lunch, pressed sandwiches are delightful, especially when
paired with a crisp Caesar salad and an iced chocolate drink. Service
can be rough. Still, this restaurant is eager to please, and the food
is truly special. Coffee, pastries, and lunch daily, dinner Tues.–Sat.
ð‘ ð· $$$.
Café de la Paz
1600 Shattuck Ave.
(510) 843-0662
The
whole idea of a Nuevo Latino café and cantina was unheard-of back in
1991, when Russell Bass opened this bright, second-floor restaurant in
the heart of North Berkeley’s food zone. But the changing menu of
classic and contemporary dishes from Latin America is still turned out
here with authenticity and without pretense. The kitchen produces at
least 20 sauces and salsas every day, savory complements to the seafood
specialties, tapas, and entrées. The dining room features beautiful
handmade yarn paintings from the Huichol people of north-central
Mexico. Brunch Sat.–Sun., lunch Mon.–Fri., dinner daily. ð‘ $$.
Café FANNY
1603 San Pablo Ave.
(510) 524-5447
Another
branch of the Chez Panisse family tree, the diminutive Café Fanny,
named for Alice Waters’s daughter, does a more buttoned-down take on
Waters’s fresh, innovative cuisine. There’s hardly room to fling a
spoonful of organic granola in this tiny space, but that doesn’t stop
locals from squeezing in for buckwheat crepes and café au lait. Come on
a sunny day and enjoy a patio table; otherwise it’s standing room only.
Breakfast and lunch daily. ð‘ ð· $$.
Café Rouge
1782 Fourth St.
(510) 525-1440
This casual, contemporary Berkeley restaurant offers a changing menu of light, flavorful
food
made with many seasonal and specialty ingredients, such as, on one
visit, a soft-shelled crab served with broadleaf cress and lemon
mayonnaise and fettuccine with green garlic, kale, and bacon. Service can be uneven,
particularly on busy evenings. Lunch daily,
dinner Tues.–Sun. ð‘ ð· $$–$$$ www.
César
1515 Shattuck Ave.
(510) 883-0222
César
has more in common with its neighbor, Chez Panisse, than location. This
Berkeley tapas bar also shares a pioneering standard of excellence.
Serving small plates of vibrant Spanish-style food, César looks like a
restaurant, but is really more of a bar-café hybrid. The concept
definitely fills a need for a grown-up gathering spot in Berkeley.
Tapas such as fresh shrimp in paprika and garlic oil, a crock of spicy
salt cod, and sandwiches with spare but flavorful fillings are designed
to go with cocktails. A 20-page bar book offers flights—three small
pours—of top-shelf brandies or vodkas. Mix and match food and drink all
night long or use César as a jumping-off point for a night in
Berkeley’s revved-up arts district. Lunch and
dinner daily. ð‘ ð· $$–$$$ www.
Chez Panisse
1517 Shattuck Ave.
(510) 548-5525
More
than 30 years after she served her first prix fixe dinner (back then,
the price was $3.95), Alice Waters and her 100-plus staff are still
doing simple magic with the season’s best ingredients. Meals in the
Craftsman-style dining room are about showcasing these ingredients.
Reservations are essential, and you can book up to one calendar month
ahead. The menu changes daily. A wide-ranging wine list offers
interesting bottles from California and Europe. Dinner Mon.–Sat. ð‘
$$$$.
Chez Panisse Café
1517 Shattuck Ave.
(510) 548-5049
This
younger sibling of the restaurant downstairs continues to offer a brief
but intriguing menu of à la carte dishes that reflect the season. Some
say that the “California pizza” was born in the rustic brick oven here,
as was the crusty baked goat cheese served with garden salad. Those
classics share menu space with pastas, grilled fish, and meats, as well
as desserts devised by Alice Waters’s pastry chefs, Alan Tangren and
Mary Canales. Take some time with the excellent wine list. Lunch and
dinner Mon.–Sat. ð‘$$.
DOWNTOWN
2102 Shattuck Ave.
(510) 649-3810
A hip, sophisticated addition to the bustling Berkeley Arts District, Downtown’s fresh,
interesting
fare perfectly suits its urban clientele. The ambience is light and
jazzy, a natural setting for a bistro aimed at an arts-loving crowd.
Jazz and blues musicians play live Tuesdays through Saturdays.
Interesting salads and seafood
highlight a changing menu. Lunch Tues.–Fri., dinner Tues.–Sun. ð‘ $$$.
Eccolo
1820 Fourth St.
(510) 644-0444
Christopher Lee and Janet Hankinson’s Tuscan-themed
Eccolo is the latest trip abroad on Berkeley’s Fourth Street. With Lee
running the kitchen and Hankinson the front of the house, the former
Ginger Island has been made sleek and stylish with warm, earthy colors,
elegant floral arrangements, an open kitchen, and an attractive zinc
bar. Eccolo—Italian for “here it is!”—has a daily changing menu that
pays tribute to family-farm producers. The arancini—deep-fried risotto
balls oozing mozzarella and garnished with a smear of marinara and a
drizzling of extra-virgin olive oil—are outstanding, as is a salad of
arugula with a garlicky clam and parsley toast. For an entrée, the
tangle of perfectly al dente strands of the Linguine alla Diavola wear
a tastefully restrained veil of tomato and pepperoncini, garnished with
tangy shards of ricotta salata. Eccolo is wellon its way to joining a
Bay Area restaurant lineup that places quality, seasonal ingredients
and honest cooking over attitude. Lunch daily, dinner Wed.–Mon. ð‘
$$$–$$$$.
Lalime’s
1329 Gilman St.
(510) 527-9838
Lalime’s
is more than just a welcoming neighborhood spot. Its delicious,
inventive food belies the restaurant’s modest location. The menu is
Mediterranean-influenced, although it changes according to what
best-quality fruits, vegetables, meats, and fish are available. Bold
New World flavors and Asian-inspired dishes also make the occasional
appearance. The wine list is innovative and often surprising. Choose
from the à la carte selections, order the prix fixe menu when offered,
or attend one of the special theme dinners, such as one featuring the
cuisine of Piemonte, Italy. Dinner daily. ð‘ $$$ www.
Mitama
3201 College Ave.
(510) 652-6157
It was a bit of
a shock when the venerable Buttercup Café closed, but we have to admit
we like its replacement. Mitama has impressive food—especially the
sushi. This shouldn’t be too surprising, as the sushi chef came from
the well-regarded Hamano in San Francisco’s Noe Valley. Classic nigiri
selections of strikingly fresh yellowtail and halibut melt in the
mouth. Rolls—including the overwrought-sounding “Mitama,” made with
tempura shrimp, spicy tuna, snow crab, cucumber wrapped in avocado,
yellowtail, flying fish roe, and scallion—are succulent gems of
balanced flavor and texture. If you’re not into sushi, the tempura is a
delight, the light batter allowing subtle flavors of fresh shrimp or
vegetable to sing. Of course, nothing is perfect, and the tastefully
designed room is marred by service that moves with the speed of a
glacier. Lunch and dinner daily. ð‘ $$$.
O Chamé
1830 Fourth St.
(510) 841-8783
On a foggy
day—no, any day—duck into this intimate retreat on busy Fourth Street
for the best noodles around, whether buckwheat soba or the fat white
udon. Don’t miss the fish specials, either. Chef-owner David Vardy
brings a high aesthetic and considerable prowess to everything he
prepares. The waitstaff will bring you beer or wine, but ask them about
the selection of fragrant Japanese and Chinese teas. Lunch and dinner
Mon.–Sat. ð‘ ð· $–$$.
Rick and Ann’s Restaurant
2922 Domingo Ave.
(510) 649-8538
Since its 1989 opening, this cozy restaurant
near
the western base of the Claremont Resort & Spa has been a favorite
Berkeley breakfast spot. Morning offerings include cornmeal pancakes,
Ann’s tofu scramble, and Rick’s signature cereal, Morning Crunch. Since
the weekend wait for these famous breakfasts can easily stretch to an
hour, Rick and Ann’s is also a nice place to pop in for supper. The
dinner menu changes weekly. A catering menu has grown out of the
restaurant business. Breakfast and lunch daily, dinner Tues.–Sun. ð‘ ð·
$$–$$$.
Rivoli
1539 Solano Ave.
(510) 526-2542
Rivoli is one of the bright lights of Solano Avenue dining, with two small rooms awash
in color and a window wall that brings the
luxuriant garden inside. Service is every bit
as warm as the décor. Chef Wendy Brucker seamlessly blends dishes and techniques
from around the world, with large dollops
of Mediterranean influence evident on the
ever-changing,
grill-intensive menu. There may be a lot happening on Rivoli’s plates,
but Brucker’s complex compositions get the job done. Dinner daily. ð‘
$$.
Spenger’s Fresh Fish Grotto
1919 Fourth St.
(510) 845-7771
This
landmark restaurant near the Berkeley Marina has been serving
delicacies of the sea for over a century. After a $5 million renovation
in the late ’90s, the grotto is again offering fresh morsels from such
faraway fishdoms as Japan (tobiko caviar), Hawaii (ahi tuna), Alaska
(coho salmon), Prince Edward Island (mussels), and New Zealand (blue
nose). A refreshing selection of salads and sandwiches provides for the
lunch crowd, and the dinner menu boasts prime steaks alongside the
ubiquitous fish. With cozy booths for family dining (as well as a steal
of an early-bird menu), the restaurant creates a consistently charming
ambience for a satisfying seafood feast. Lunch and dinner daily.
Validated parking. ð‘ $$–$$$.
TACUBAYA
1788 Fourth St.,
(510) 525-5160
Tacubaya
is sister restaurant to the popular Doña Tomas in Oakland, where
chef/owners Thomas Schnetz and Donna Savitsky made a name for
themselves with soulful renditions of Mexican classics. At Tacubaya,
the couple have stuck to using fresh, locally grown produce, Niman
Ranch meats, and organic Hoffman Farm chickens. Chef Michael Rivera, an
alumnus of Oliveto, and his crew make everything from scratch every
day, including heartbreakingly wonderful corn tortillas, icy and
refreshing horchata, and some memorable salsas. Earthy, regionally
authentic breakfast and lunch dishes include chilaquiles, ceviche, and
tamales of sweet corn or pork with red mole—with nary a burrito in
sight. Breakfast and lunch daily. $.
ZAX TAVERN
2826 Telegraph Ave.
(510) 848-9299
It
may be located on a somnolent stretch of Telegraph Avenue, but Zax
Tavern is alive and hopping. Chefs Mark Drazek and Barbara Mulas, of
the previous Zax in San Francisco, join co-owners and house managers
Michael Modos (formerly of Lalime’s) and Adam Shoehalter (Italian
Colors) in creating this inviting neighborhood bistro. Patrons can
savor the seasonal California menu while enjoying the dining room’s
soft music, Berkeley Mills woodwork, and floral arrangements.
Highlights include a twice-baked goat cheese soufflé appetizer, a
smattering of Niman Ranch meat entrées (pork ribs, steaks, pork chops,
and a burger are all on offer), and a Mediterranean-influenced lamb
stew. Dinner Tues.–Sat.. ð‘ $$–$$$.
BRENTWOOD
Cap’s Oak Street Bar & Grill
144 Oak St.
(925) 634-1025
Don’t
be alarmed by the stark exterior of this continental cuisine-serving
restaurant in downtown Brentwood. The converted Masonic lodge houses a
warm, elegant dining room resplendent with antique chandeliers and an
open kitchen. Cap’s serves pastas, seafood, and steaks with flair. Try
the filet mignon and lobster tail served with freshly steamed Brentwood
vegetables or the sole almandine with rice pilaf. Servers are
borderline mind readers—they anticipate your needs before you do. (Good
luck getting to the bottom of that ice water.) Eat out on the patio
under a tent of sparkling lights. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Fri., dinner
only Sat. and Sun. ð‘ ð· $$$.
CLAYTON
ED’S MUDVILLE GRILL
6200 Center St.
(925) 673-0333
Pop
into Ed Moresi’s sports bar and grill in Clayton, and you’ll feel as if
everybody knows your name. This family-friendly watering hole boasts
stadium favorites like hot wings, onion rings, and the Mighty Casey
burger, and includes daily specials like cioppino. Chill out on the
deck with the Fuji apple salad while the kids hit the arcade, or grab a
stool and a pint of suds (choose from more than 20 beers on tap) in the
boisterous dining room. With 11 televisions and tons of sports
memorabilia lining the walls, Ed’s is a sports fan’s nirvana. Lunch and
dinner daily. ð‘ ð· $.
Elysium
6115 Main St.
(925) 672-1333
A new owner has brought the food up a notch
at
this cozy old-Clayton Victorian. Focaccia arrives hot and flecked with
caramelized onion. A butternut squash puree was silky and sweet, not
overwhelmingly creamy, with a true butternut flavor and balanced
seasoning. The mizuna and green apple salad, with red onion, blue
cheese, and rice-wine vinaigrette was a lively mixture of fresh
flavors, and even the simple green salad sported a perfect classic
vinaigrette with shallots. The rack of lamb is served with
a petit herb salad, which includes mint; it takes a little getting used
to but actually makes a nice accompaniment. The flavors of the salmon
with a fennel broth didn’t come together well, and
the broth seemed watery. A flourless chocolate cake had a satisfying
flavor. The wine list has some odd bargain-bin choices; if you bring
your own wine, corkage is $10. Dinner Wed.–Sun., brunch Sun. ð‘ $$$.
GUADALAJARA GRILL
5400 Ygnacio Valley Rd.
(925) 672-4430
On
a busy Saturday night, you’re likely to hear owner Saul Avelar yelling
“Hot plates!” in his thick accent as he rushes by. It’s that kind of
color—and the authentic Mexican food—that draws the crowds on weekends.
So be prepared to wait a few minutes—you can sip on a margarita while
you pass the time. The Grill offers every type of Mexican dish, its
bestseller being the chicken fajitas. The green-chili enchiladas are
excellent, too. And don’t forget to grab a signature lollipop on the
way out. Lunch and dinner daily. ð‘ ð· $–$$.
La Veranda
6201 Center St.
(925) 524-0011
Nicolas
Maamari opened La Veranda in Clayton’s infamous “haunted” building in
May 2002, but Maamari and partner Johnny Khalilieh aren’t worried about
apparitions spoiling appetites at this eatery. Their menu offers
cuisine from northern Italy with a family-style dining environment.
Starter plates are especially good—the grilled prawns wrapped in a thin
shell of pancetta are outstanding—while the entrée selections of pizzas
and pasta dishes provide ample options. Daily specials feature fresh
fish and veal variations and a fine selection of local wines. Lunch and
dinner daily, brunch Sun. ð‘ ð· $$.
CONCORD
A & Noi
2118 Willow Pass Rd., #400
(925) 363-4365
Husband-and-wife
team A and Noi Boonsang threw fusion to the wind when creating this
friendly American/Thai/Mediterranean joint. Their menu, which is part
Asian exotic (think pad Thai and papaya salad), part Yankee classic
(think porterhouse steak and Maine lobster), can only be described as
“quirky.” Crispy Dungeness crab cakes, inventively enveloped in
shredded and fried phyllo, make a great starter for a traditional
grilled chicken fettuccine or shrimp scampi. Or for an Eastern
experience, try the near-perfect chicken satay before moving on to beef
mausamun curry and jasmine rice. The chef’s aesthetic knack is apparent
in every dish, but sadly absent in the bland dining room. Desserts
handmade by pastry specialist Noi provide for a fantastic finale. Lunch
and dinner daily. ð‘ ð· $$–$$$.
GRISSINI
1970 Diamond Blvd.
(at the Concord Hilton)
(925) 680-1700
Though
Grissini is set inside the Concord Hilton, there’s a separate entrance
to make this Italian restaurant feel more intimate than a standard
hotel bistro. Executive chef Wolfgang Weber, formerly of Walnut Creek’s
Le Virage, took over the kitchen in 2002, and has made the switch from
classic French to traditional Sicilian cuisine with ease. To perk up
the menu’s traditional Caesar salads, pizzas, and pastas, Weber has
added some interesting appetizers and entrées. Try the bruschetta as a
starter, and the thin, pan-seared Halibut as a main course. One item
Weber hasn’t changed is the signature tiramisu, covered in luscious
chocolate shavings—quite a decadent way to
finish the meal. Lunch Mon.–Fri., breakfast and dinner daily. ð‘ ð· $$$–$$$$.
Hot Basil Café
790D Oak Grove Rd.
(925) 288-0000.
Split
personalities are not usually great for relationships. But Hot Basil’s
side-by-side servings of Indian and Thai dishes are worthy of a
long-term commitment. And when we say side-by-side, we mean it. This is
not a fusion restaurant, but a place where Indian and Thai specialties
are independently realized—a place where you can try samosas, then Thai
fried rice. Both cuisines are spice-intensive, so although it may seem
strange to follow the refreshingly complex vegetarian spring rolls with
the rich yet light alu ghobi (cauliflower and potato in a
tomato-and-onion sauce), it works out fine. There are missteps, such as
a bland pad thai, but you have to expect that on a large menu that
ranges from tom kha gai to tandoori chicken. While not the best Thai or
Indian you’ll ever eat, Hot Basil comes through on the little things,
like a properly baked naan, that ensure this is one first date you’ll
want to meet again. Lunch and dinner daily. ð‘ $$.
Luna
2118 Willow Pass Rd., 100 B
(925) 691-4080
Tucked into a row of buildings on Todos Santos Plaza, this urban trattoria transforms fresh
vegetables,
fish, and meats into a virtual trip to Italy. The menu selections are
wide ranging and classic—caprese salad, bruschetta, carpaccio, veal
Marsala, and penne arrabbiata are a few stellar standbys—with an
emphasis on quality ingredients and distinct flavors. Diners are easily
seduced into long, leisurely meals, ending with luscious desserts,
including tiramisu and chocolate-
topped profiteroles with custard. Lunch Mon.–Fri., dinner daily. ð‘ $$.
Memo’s Cocina Mexicana
2118 Mt. Diablo St.
(925) 691-6200
In
the world of Bay Area Mexican food, most restaurants are either fast
and cheap taquerias or the sit-down joints that serve hefty combo
platters covered in melted cheese. But Memo’s Cocina Mexicana in
Concord is a step above. Yes, there are standards like tacos, burritos,
and enchiladas, but you'll also find uncommon dishes like a refreshing
cactus salad; thick, carnitas-topped masa cakes called sopes; and the
fantastic chicken pipian, a sultry, pumpkin seed–based mole that is one
of Mexico’s noblest—and hardest to find—dishes. Add to all that a trio
of excellent salsas, attentive service, and good nightly specials.
Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tues.–Sun. ð‘ ð· $$.
T. R.’s bar & grill
2001 Salvio St.
(925) 827-4660
T.
R.’s Bar & Grill occupies a spacious downtown building that exudes
lived-in comfort. The dark, wood-paneled dining room, taxidermy
display, and tinkling of cocktails make the place feel like an
old-fashioned gentlemen’s club gone co-ed. The ornate wooden bar is a
real eye-catcher, and a great place to have a drink and watch a game on
one of several TVs. While reasonably priced, the American and Italian
fare don’t rise above the ordinary. Best to stick to the basics, such
as the chicken wings, burgers, and sandwiches. The shoestring fries are
good, as are the light and fresh salads. Lunch and dinner daily. ð· ð‘
$$.
DANVILLE
Amber
500 Hartz Ave.
(925) 552-5238
Like its predecessor Bridges Zensai, vibrant Amber
serves small and big plates showcasing high-quality ingredients,
striking presentations, and a strong Asian influence. The bar serves
cool specialty cocktails, and on weekends there's live jazz to
complement the good-looking food and people. Executive chef Mark
Dantanavatanawong's tidy menu ranges from the “vegetables purse” to a
pan-seared, rosemary-tinted New Zealand rack of lamb. The fried
calamari has a barely-there crust, and the squid is wonderfully tender,
while the pan-seared, almond-crusted halibut tastes light and fresh in
spite of its hearty mantle of nuts. For dessert, don't miss the silken
crème brûlée. Amber has all the right moves, even if some of them feel
familiar. Lunch Wed.–Fri., dinner Tues.–Sun. ð‘ $$$.
Basil Leaf Café
501 Hartz Ave.
(925) 831-2828
Basil
Leaf Café is as much about the outside world as it is the inside, with
two levels of attractive patio seating along Hartz Avenue. The owners
have given this vintage building an airy, open feeling, and no matter
where you sit, you’ll have a wide choice of pasta dishes—many with
basil—as well as grilled fish or rosemary chicken. Lunch and dinner
daily, brunch Sun. ð‘ ð· $$.
Blackhawk Grille
3540 Blackhawk Plaza Circle
(925) 736-4295
Executive
chef Scott Sasaki’s menu features Mediterranean and Asian flavors such
as a ginger-poached halibut, Japanese pork chops, and filet mignon with
foie gras mousse. The rich Manila clam chowder, studded with pancetta
and Yukon gold potatoes, is superb, as is the Caesar salad. The
ingredients in Sasaki’s food are top-notch, but the final product falls
short on some dishes, such as the heavily lemon-flavored pea ravioli
and the uninspired lamb with potato gnocchi. And service isn’t quite in
line with the steep prices. But with good looks and a fine wine list,
the Blackhawk Grille remains a Danville standout. Outdoor seating on
warm nights adds to the appeal. Dinner daily, lunch Mon.–Sat., brunch
Sun. ð‘ ð· $$–$$$ www.
Bridges
44 Church St.
(925) 820-7200
No one can quibble
with the elegant, airy beauty of Bridges’s dining room, but the
kitchen, while showing significant promise, comes off as a work in
progress. House pizzetta, for example, was basically a flattened
biscuit with prepared, overcooked sausage and out-of-season tomatoes
when we visited. Salads, arranged artfully on rectangular ceramic
plates, bring verdant lettuces and crisp vinaigrettes, but a
butter-poached lobster salad, described as dressed in a pancetta
vinaigrette, arrived scattered with bacon bits. Tender grilled escolar
and braised short ribs was a fantastic, thoughtful dish, but seared
tuna was mismatched with a rustic, heavy truffle-oil–infused polenta.
Oolong crème brûlée is a revelation: The custard, lightly scented with
orange and tea, is as smooth and creamy as they come. Lunch Mon.–Fri.,
dinner daily. ð‘ ð· $$$$.
Chutneys
9000-J Crow Canyon Rd.
(925) 736-5448
Don’t let
the modest location fool you. Chutneys is an elegant, sophisticated
Indian restaurant where the complex food is accompanied by friendly,
nearly doting service. Curries are a must, and you can specify the heat
level when you order. Tandoori chicken is red and moist, and don’t pass
up the naan, classic Indian flat bread. Use the warm rounds to soak up
the last bit of savory sauce. Lunch Mon.–Fri., dinner daily. ð‘ ð·
$$–$$$.
Danville Prime Rib and Steak Restaurant
301 Hartz Ave., #103
(925) 820-6996
Nearing its first anniversary, the Danville Prime Rib and Steak
Restaurant is a clubby spot where groups and couples indulge in the
steakhouse fare of yesteryear. The simple menu starts with a salad of
tangy, crunchy romaine and iceberg, beets, chopped egg, and vinaigrette
tossed tableside. Low-carb devotees can revel in generous cuts of juicy
prime rib, steak, and fish. But they’ll be tempted by the accompanying
baskets of pillowy popovers and skillet-baked cornbread sweet with
fresh corn kernels. Then there are the desserts—towering slices of
silky home-baked pecan pie and cheesecake. In contemporary steakhouse
fashion, the entrées are pricey—even the vegetarian stuffed portobello
mushroom—but the salad’s included, so it’s an OK deal. Dinner nightly.
ð‘ ð· $$$$.
De ming’s
105 C and D Town and Country Dr.
(925) 820-8887
De Ming’s menu skips across Asia with dishes from China, Indonesia,
Japan, Singapore, Vietnam, and Thailand without tripping up. While not
every single thing shines, it’s fun to mix and match dishes such as
Thai spring rolls, Vietnamese salt-and-pepper garlic prawns, and
Szechuan spicy braised beef. Walk inside this popular restaurant and
you’re in the bar, standing beneath a bumper crop of fake grapevines.
Once you leave this hanging garden of faux fruit and step into the
dining room, the ceiling becomes a kaleidoscope of colorful, inverted
parasols. A novel decorating idea for a novel restaurant. Lunch and
dinner daily. ð‘ $$.
Domenico’s Delicatessen
682 Hartz Ave.
(925) 837-8301
For 11 years, Domenico’s has made sandwiches and salads that are quite
possibly the most innovative in the Bay Area. The Domenico’s sandwich
is like a Rubik’s cube of ingredients—more than 20 rolls and breads, 60
cheeses, and 80 meats can be mixed, matched, and manipulated into the
hoagie of your dreams. Owner Joseph Giacomini (Domenico is his middle
name) puts an emphasis on “California first,” which means everything’s
fresh, all salads (and even some of the condiments) are made in-house,
and there are as many low-fat dishes as there are joggers on the Iron
Horse Trail. Look for select wines from Napa and Sonoma too—and expect
a line out the door during the lunch crush. Lunch daily. ð‘ ð· $.
Father Nature’s
178 E. Prospect Ave.
(925) 820-3160
What is it that makes this place feel so wholesome? The woodsy setting?
The simple but savory soups, salads, and sandwiches? The eternally
gracious welcome? Maybe it’s all those in combination with the
distinctly paternal suggestion in the down-home name. The folks here
will indulge you with half a sandwich paired with soup or salad.
Armenian pinwheel sandwiches on lavash are a perennial favorite.
Breakfast and lunch Mon.–Sat. ð‘ $.
Faz Restaurant and BAR
600 Hartz Ave.
(925) 838-1320
The brown wood interior, the greenery of the surrounding redwoods, and
a twinkle of tiny white lights welcome you to the dining experience at
Faz. The true splendor of this restaurant, however, lies not in what is
seen but in what is tasted. The menu features a Mediterranean medley of
homemade pastas, smoked and spit-roasted meats, fresh seafood, and
scrumptious desserts. The baked brie with toasted walnuts makes a
perfect starter, while the grilled rack of lamb with mint chutney and
the tiramisu in raspberry sauce follow it up nicely. The daily specials
and suggested wines are always exciting, as is the homemade flat bread
with balsamic vinegar, garlic, and olive oil, which thankfully makes
its way to your table almost immediately upon your arrival. Lunch
Mon.–Fri., dinner daily. ð‘ ð· $$.
The Great Impasta La Trattoria and Pasta Market
318 Sycamore Valley Rd. W.
(925) 831-9363
If it’s true that noodles have become one of the basic food groups,
this is the place where half of us seem to be getting our supplies.
What makes it unique is that these folks will cook up just about
anything for you if they have the ingredients in stock—and they usually
do. They whip up all kinds of pastas, more than a dozen sauces, plus
bread, salads, and desserts for the end of the workday crowd. Half of
Danville, it seems, is loading up on food-to-go for an instant dinner
at home. Lunch and dinner daily. ð‘ ð· $.
KANE SUSHI
125 Hartz Ave.
(925) 362-8686
You’ve got to love a sushi restaurant that names its most expensive
item the Bling Bling Roll. Kane Sushi’s celebrated $22 maki plate is
piled with enough soft-shell crab, tuna, hamachi, and salmon to fill up
a whole crew of hip-hoppers. Or a throng of San Ramon Valley high
schoolers, who’ve been known to flood across the street at lunchtime
for a low-cal feast. The atmosphere at Kane is casual and fun, with
happy Danvillians gorging themselves on playfully named rolls and “sake
bombs” (sake shots dropped into a glass of Japanese beer) on weekend
nights. Inquisitive chefs will talk your ear off if you sit at the
sushi bar, and those who talk back are occasionally rewarded with a
free piece of nigiri. Arigato, pal. Also in Lafayette. Lunch and dinner
daily. ð‘ $.
La Ultima New Mexico Food
455 Hartz Ave.
(925) 838-9705
The streetside patio at La Ultima is perpetually at capacity, with
diners seated under umbrellas sampling Mexican classics. Specialties
include layered flat enchiladas topped with fried eggs and red chili,
as well as sopapillas, the New Mexican fried bread stuffed with chili
verde or chili Colorado. Lunch and dinner daily. ð‘ ð· $.
Lisa B’s Bistro
411 Hartz Ave.
(925) 552-6464
Since her bistro’s 2000 debut, Lisa Burton has become the queen of
Hartz. Lisa B’s radiates the warmth and comfort of a best friend’s
kitchen. Breakfast treats include various egg dishes, oatmeal–raspberry
pancakes, and a French toast casserole served with blueberries,
streusel, and real maple syrup. After dark, the café provides just
enough candlelight to make you look fabulous while scarfing down
spoonfuls of angel hair pasta. Regulars swear by the fresh fish of the
day—in summer, look for fish tacos. Reservations are advised if you
want dibs on the equally flawless desserts. Breakfast Sat.–Sun., lunch
Tues.–Sat., dinner Tues.–Sat, brunch Sat.–Sun. ð‘ ð· $–$$.
Marcello’s
515 San Ramon Valley Blvd.
(925) 838-8144
Marcello’s remains a cozy haven where you can ease through a lunch or
dinner in the true Italian-Continental vein. Prosciutto and melon,
scampi Livornese, and sweetbreads sauté all evoke a style of Italian
cooking that has nearly disappeared elsewhere, but is honored and
carefully constructed here. Veal is a specialty. We hesitated to ask
what, exactly, is in the Mafia salad. Lunch Tues.–Fri., dinner
Tues.–Sun. ð‘ ð· $$–$$$.
Masala
499 San Ramon Valley Blvd.
(925) 362-4900
This stylish, comfortable establishment
serves “Indian fusion,” which is a heady
excursion into South Asian flavors with a
strong California sensibility. The result is a
new cuisine that, while still a little bumpy,
will give diners plenty of new tastes: a crispy,
succulent roasted quail marinated in yogurt
and garam masala; a rich, smooth tomato-
coconut soup; plump seared scallops with a
tangy spinach sauce; roasted cauliflower with
a cashew-chili sauce; and ginger-chili crème brûlée; as well as kebabs and biryani. Indian
flat breads like rosemary naan, onion kulcha, and paneer cheese-stuffed
naan are cooked to a luscious tenderness in Masala’s tandoori ovens.
Lunch buffet Tues.–Fri. $8.98, Lunch Sat.,
dinner Tues.–Sun. ð‘ ð· $$–$$$.
Norm’s Place
356 Hartz Ave.
(925) 552-6676
Another bar and grill addition to Hartz Avenue’s busy dining district,
this auto-themed eatery offers a casual atmosphere and food that goes
well with beer. Danville native Justin “Norm” Walsh, whose resemblance
to actor George Wendt (who played the amiable barfly Norm on Cheers),
left Pete’s Brass Rail after seven years to open his own restaurant.
Chef Jourdan Chauss’s simple menu offers a balance of fried appetizers
(popcorn shrimp, wings, rings) and low-carb options (seared marinated
ahi and a grilled marinated chicken breast). The half dozen salads and
sandwiches are fresh and reasonably priced, and the menu claims to
serve the biggest burger in town. Of the seven burgers on the bill,
only four are beef—there’s also crab and shrimp, turkey, and portobello
mushroom. The heartiest plates—dry-aged New York steak, boneless pork
chops, and lamb rack Shiraz—are only available after 5 p.m. Lunch and
dinner daily. ð· $$.
Pascal French Oven
155 Railroad Ave.
(925) 838-7349
The early-morning crowd at Pascal sits outside, sipping their first
cups of caffè with house-baked pastries, Belgian waffles, or omelettes.
At lunch the shift is to soup, salads, and sandwiches. Order at the
counter, and the friendly staff will bring your meal to the table
you’ve scored on the patio. Live accordion music on Saturday and Sunday
mornings. Breakfast and lunch daily. ð· $$.
Patrick David’s
416 Sycamore Valley Rd.
(925) 838-7611
Having garnered two prestigious Wine Spectator Awards of Excellence for
its world-class wine list, Patrick David’s continues to reap the
rewards of 2002’s much-publicized remodel. The restaurant pulls in
local admirers as fast as it does national acclaim. Loyal customers
swear by chef-owner Patrick Schoolcraft’s Dungeness crab cake, halibut,
a jumbo prawns with rice and red Thai curry, and his panko-crusted
free-range chicken breast and Dijon mustard served with soft polenta.
Now that the restaurant has a bar and a liquor license, Schoolcraft has
added a delicious small plates menu to the works.
Diners will be hard-pressed not to overdo it
on the seafood-heavy appetizer plate before
the main course commences. But try they
must. Lunch Mon.–Sat., dinner daily, brunch Sun. ð‘ ð· $$$-$$$$ www.
Pete’s Brass Rail and Car Wash
201 Hartz Ave.
(925) 820-8281
It’s all mythology and microbrews at Pete’s, where there’s nobody named
Pete and certainly no place to get your wheels washed. No, the
headliners here are the burgers and the locals who fill the place with
stunning regularity. Check out the long wall covered with framed
drawings of the illusory Pete. Lunch and dinner daily. ð‘ ð· $.
PIATTI Locali
100 Sycamore Valley Rd. W.
(925) 838-2082
Things are busy, busy, busy these days at Piatti. The peak-hour
acoustics inside the trattoria’s barn-shaped dining room indicate a
restaurant in full throttle. Fortunately, the quality of the food has
not been lost in the rush. An excellent selection of flat bread
sandwiches, savory salads, and fresh vegetable-enriched pasta and meat
dishes greets a roomful of executives at lunch, while couples and
families dig into generous pasta portions during the evening. We
recommend the stuffed, pancetta-wrapped chicken breast or the basil
gnocchi with caramelized shallots and pine nuts. A team of attentive,
scurrying servers do their best to keep tables stocked with
complimentary warm Italian sourdough and bowls of rapidly disappearing
dipping oil. Lunch and dinner daily, Sunday brunch. ð‘ $$.
Rising Loafer
340 Hartz Ave.
(925) 838-8800
For more than 20 years, folks have been rising early to enjoy
fresh-baked cinnamon rolls, breads, scones, and muffins at this
Danville landmark. The outside tables fill up first, and you’d swear
that everybody leaning over breakfast knows everybody else. Lunch
brings sandwiches, salads, and wonderful homemade soups. No dinner.
(Also in Lafayette and Pleasanton.) ð· $.
Sen Dai Teriyaki
101-C Town and Country Dr.
(925) 837-1027
The teriyaki sauce at cozy Sen Dai is pungent—tangy and sweet—and is
just as good with salmon or beef as it is in the classic chicken
preparation. Tempura arrives crisp and light. Lunch Mon.–Fri., dinner
daily. ð‘ $–$$.
Sushi Bar Hana
411 Hartz Ave.
(925) 820-0670
Small can be small or really small, and sometimes even really, really
small. Hana is indeed a bite-size place for sushi, with 10 or so seats
at the counter and four tables. But the sushi is worth elbowing in for.
The raw-fish-fearful can select the tasty beef or chicken teriyaki
instead. Lunch Tues.–Fri., dinner Tues.–Sun. ð‘ ð· $$–$$$.
THAI HOUSE
254 Rose Ave.
(925) 820-0635
Brightly decorated and cozy Thai House is the place to venture if
you’re in the mood for inventive, flavorful Thai dishes—and well worth
the short walk from Danville’s main drag. The menu draws from both
northern and southern Thailand, as well as including a few
Western-inspired innovations such as the pumpkin curry and lobster.
Green papaya salad is pleasantly spicy and tangy, accentuated with the
crunchiness and chewiness of ground peanuts and dried shrimp. Duck
curry is cooked in a rich, flickering hot sauce enlivened with the
sweet flavors of pineapple, grapes, and peas. Desserts include the
sweet snow roti—a barely browned rice-flour pancake topped with rich,
sugary condensed milk. Lunch Mon.-Sat., dinner daily. ð‘ ð· $$.
Uptown Café
327 Hartz Ave.
(925) 838-8588
Everything about this café is crisp, simple, smart. The look is clean ’50s, and the menu items are listed without paragraph-long
descriptions of every ingredient. Pastas,
pizzas, seafood, soup specials, and meat
dishes share equal billing. Brunch Sun.,
lunch and dinner daily. ð‘ ð· $–$$.
Vally Medlyn’s
330 Hartz Ave.
(925) 837-4040
This coffee shop on Hartz Avenue opened in Danville in 1950, after 15
years in Oakland. Still as popular as when the doors opened are the
“kistwich” sandwiches, built of grilled hot dogs—sliced longways—plus
lettuce, tomato, mayo, mustard, and relish on grilled bread. There’s
also a deluxe version made like a club sandwich. Chase your lunch with
a real milk shake. Breakfasts are great, too. Breakfast and lunch
daily, dinner Fri.–Sat. ð· $.
Yotaka Sushi BAR AND Grill
3496 Blackhawk Plaza Circle
(925) 964-1616
The whole lineup of Japanese standards is available at Blackhawk
Plaza’s Yotaka Sushi Grill. A meal begins with a small, complimentary
bowl of edamame, or salted soybeans. Then it’s on to an iceberg lettuce
salad, miso soup, teriyaki, and tempura, as well as raw fish from the
restaurant’s centrally located sushi bar. Lunch offers the
rice-and-meat combinations known as donburi, and udon, or noodles in
soup. The décor feels lavish—the space used to be a piano store—with
its Japanese accents and gold and midnight-blue draperies, complete
with valances and tassels. But don’t let the luxurious setting fool
you: The menu and the preparation are straightforward. Lunch and dinner
daily. ð‘ $$–$$$.
DUBLIN
Amici’s East Coast Pizzeria
4640 Tassajara Rd.
(925) 875-1600
If thin-crust pizza calls out to you, Amici’s will have you hearing
voices. Lots of ‘em, telling you not only about the crispness and
deliciousness of the crust, but also about the thick, nicely seasoned
tomato sauce. With toppings ranging from baby spinach to jalapeños,
there’s something for everyone (we found the sausage a little sweet for
our own taste). Pasta dishes are wholesome and plentiful, and also come
in many versions: marinara, meat sauce, Alfredo, pesto, clam sauce, or
primavera. All can be topped with a choice of meats, including
flavorful homemade meatballs. Salads are ho-hum. Located in the
Waterford shopping center, Amici’s is a great place to go in a group;
large pizzas and family-size pastas are about $20. Lunch and dinner
daily. ð‘ $.
Casa Orozco
7995 Amador Valley Blvd.
(925) 828-5464
Choose from all the standard Mexican favorites on the extensive menu,
or opt for one of the more complex dishes like the barbacoa
(long-simmered beef in a spicy ranchera sauce) or the camarones Cancún
(shrimp sautéed in tequila). Both the Dublin and Livermore restaurants
are sparkling clean and always crowded, though riotously noisy when
filled with big groups celebrating over pitchers of Sauza Extra Gold
margaritas. The staff—savvy and accessible—could not be better in these
family-owned and -operated restaurants. Lunch and dinner daily. (Also
in Livermore.) ð‘ $$–$$$ www.
FRANKIE, JOHNNIE, & LUIGI TOO
11891 Dublin Blvd.
(925) 828-9380
No, they aren’t the Pep Boys (that’s Manny, Moe, and Jack). Frankie,
Johnnie, and Luigi are three Italian friends who started a popular
Santa Clara eatery back in the 1950s, which was replicated several
times on the Peninsula and in the South Bay. Their first East Bay
location, on Dublin Boulevard, is a family-friendly restaurant,
offering standard Italian fare. There’s a multitude of pasta courses
(with reduced prices at lunchtime) and specialized pizzas. (Carnivores
should sample Tina’s Too Too Much, with salami, pepperoni, sausage, and
linguica.) For groups of four to six, try Frankie’s Friendly Dinner,
which includes a large salad, a cheese pizza, a platter of spaghetti or
rigatoni, and a whole roasted chicken, all for $60 (or $40 on
Wednesday). Lunch and dinner daily. ð‘ $$.
Hana Japan Steak House
7298 San Ramon Rd.
(925) 829-7491
Perfect
for parties or large groups, Hana Japan is the Medieval Times of
teppan-style cooking: It’s all about the show. The small dining room is
always crowded and dim as chefs prepare hibachi steak, chicken, and
seafood at each table, showcasing their knife skills, juggling, and
humor. Dinner comes with salad, soup, rice and vegetables, and a couple
of appetizer shrimp, the latter often tossed by the chef into the mouth
of one brave volunteer. You’ll hear the Birthday Song at least five
times while you eat—the free meal and pineapple boat dessert are a
local birthday tradition, and after your party you can add a photo to
the imposing lobby collage. Reservations are recommended, and small
parties may be seated with others to fill up a table. Lunch Mon.–Fri.,
dinner daily. ð‘ $$–$$$.
McNamara’s Steak and Chop House
7400 San Ramon Rd.
(925) 833-0995
You won’t find any sawdust on the floor at this Dublin steak house. At
McNamara’s, elegance is the order of the day. With the indoor and
outdoor fireplaces, a mahogany bar, fine fabric-covered booths, soft
lighting, and live piano music, you might think that the atmosphere is
the main attraction—until your meal arrives. The shrimp- and
crab-stuffed portobello mushroom and the lobster bisque make for
sumptuous starters. Words like “seared,” “caramelized,” and
“herb-crusted” pepper the menu of steak, prime rib, and fresh seafood
entrées. The tastes, sights, and sounds make this a gem of a dining
experience. Dinner daily. ð‘ ð· $$$-$$$$.
Pasta Primavera
7222 Regional St.
(925) 803-8485
You’ll
have to put Pasta Primavera’s bread dip, made of eggplant, sundried
tomatoes, and virgin olive oil, out of arm’s reach in order to save
room for the main course. The menu at this spacious Italian restaurant
offers a variety of salads and pastas cooked to order. Particularly
yummy is the pasta Roma: linguine with chicken andouille sausage,
mushrooms, artichoke hearts, and bell peppers in a marinara sauce. On
our visit, an asparagus appetizer special was refreshing and the
flavors—fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, pimentos, and basil topped with
balsamic vinaigrette—were perfectly balanced. The house salad, however,
was drowning in vinaigrette. The
wine list offers several California bottles, and desserts include a
to-die-for chocolate mousse and six flavors of gelato. Lunch and dinner
daily. Also in Concord, San Ramon, and
Walnut Creek. ð‘ ð· $$-$$$.
Regional St. Bistro
6680 Regional St.
(925) 828-7750
You’ll find more atmosphere on the moon,
but this Radisson Hotel restaurant offers
reliable,
straightforward food. Try the pan-smoked baby back ribs with American
barbecue sauce, fries, and coleslaw or the New York strip steak with
seasonal vegetables. Service is
professional and gracious. Breakfast daily,
lunch and dinner Mon.–Sat. ð‘ ð· $$.
Stacey’s at Waterford
4500 Tassajara Rd., Ste. C
(925) 551-8325
Waterford? It’s the shopping center/apartment complex where Dilbert creator Scott Adams
has
opened his second restaurant. Unlike the original Stacey’s Café in
Pleasanton, you won’t find Dilbert gear for sale here—just upscale
supper club trappings: plush banquettes and a display kitchen, all
decked out in a harlequin print of burgundy, gold, and purple. An
antidote to the nearby Safeway deli counter
and fast-casual chains, the menu of pastas,
pizzas, seafood, and beef is smaller, but similar to the Café’s—and
without Adams’s cartoon-cutesy recommendations. Lunch Mon.–Fri., dinner
daily. ð‘ ð· $$$.
EMERYVILLE
Arizmendi Bakery and Pizzeria
4301 San Pablo Ave.
(510) 547-0550
Worker-owned
Arizmendi, sister to the Cheese Board in Berkeley , is just about the
best food-related thing to happen to Emeryville in a long time. Located
on a high-traffic, slightly seedy block of San Pablo Avenue (at 43rd),
the small bakery is chock-full of glorious smells and local characters,
just like the original Arizmendi in Oakland. Morning regulars feast on
freshly baked scones, pastries, cookies, and breads, while the lunch
crowd comes for the pizza. The thin sourdough crust holds daily-special
cheese and organic vegetables. Eccentric toppings like
sweet potato, kalamata olive tapenade, smoked mozzarella, and cilantro pesto might deter lovers
of classic pizza, but these delicious pies are worth the risk. Eat a slice at the bakery, or
take a half or a whole pie home, either fully
or half baked. Open daily. ð· $$.
Bucci’s
6121 Hollis St.
(510) 547-4725
It’s about time this urban Italian restaurant, open since 1988, got its props. The restaurant is lively a

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