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At the Bar

Papa's Potion


Talk about on-the-job training. When Pizzaiolo chef-owner Charlie Hallowell decided to take advantage of his Oakland restaurant’s liquor license, he handed the task of developing the drinks to Journey Meadows, who had little experience with cocktails.

Papa's Potion; Photograph by Lorraine Battle But, from looking at the bar’s well-curated collection of boutique spirits and her impeccable drink list, you’d think she was a longtime expert.
The first cocktail on her list is often a daiquiri. Think not of Bacardi and a whirring blender, though. The daiquiris made by Meadows, a cocktail purist and rum fanatic, are direct descendants of the simple, original versions made with rum and lime. “Rum is pretty misunderstood,” she says. “We usually think of it in mojitos and rum and cokes. But, rum has so much complexity and variety.”

To prove her point, she stocks the restaurant’s small bar with 12 rums from such locales as Bermuda and the French Caribbean islands. Though the featured daiquiri changes regularly and might feature an aged rum like Pampero from Venezuela, her version of the classic Hemingway daiquiri often holds the slot. Meadows builds the bright, complex drink with either Haitian Barbancourt white rum or one of her personal favorites, La Favorite agricole rum from Martinique—made from sugar cane rather than molasses. To that she adds maraschino liqueur along with lime and grapefruit juices.

Papa might never have imagined his drink of choice would be served alongside a nettle pizza on a busy stretch of Oakland’s Telegraph Avenue. But we doubt he’d complain.

Hemingway Daiquiri

1 1/2 ounces La Favorite rum
3/4 ounce freshly squeezed lime juice
3/4 ounce freshly squeezed grapefruit juice
1/2 ounce Luxardo maraschino liqueur
Dash cane syrup

Pour the rum, citrus juices, Luxardo, and cane syrup into a tumbler. Fill tumbler with ice. Shake well (but not too vigorously) for 10 seconds. Strain twice (Meadows uses a fine-mesh strainer), the second time into a martini glass. Garnish with a grapefruit twist.

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