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Restaurant Review

Mono in Oakland starts the updated and expanded restaurant listings section.



Published:

Photograph by Lane Hartwell

Mono 247 Fourth St., Oakland, (510) 834-0260, www.monorestaurant.com.

A husband-and-wife team with a strong food background is putting lots of love into this Oakland wine bar and restaurant. The name, which means “monkey” in Spanish, is chef Todd Wilson’s term of endearment for his wife, general manager Eloisa Castillo. The industrial space not far from Jack London Square is polished and a great place to enjoy wine and small plates of food. Fish crudos, cheeses, and charcuterie figure largely on the menu, but our visit turned up scrumptious pan-seared scallops, garlicky prawns a la plancha served on crostini, and seasonal silky Meyer lemon risotto. Portions vary in size, and occasionally a dish, such as miso lamb chops with apple jus and baby bok choy, doesn’t come together. But, service is outstanding, wines are well-priced, and the atmosphere is fun. Lunch Tues.–Fri., dinner Tues.–Sat.

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