2151 Salvio St., Ste. I, Concord, (925) 521-9010.
Concord’s renovated Todos Santos Plaza has attracted several new restaurants, and Toscana, which occupies a sunny corner, is one of the best. Owner Vahid Safiari, who also owns Fontina in Pleasanton, sticks to an Italian-California menu. Salads, such as the Mediterranean, with chopped romaine, tomatoes, and cucumbers in zippy vinaigrette, are crisp and refreshing. The Italian meatballs arrive atop a hearty portion of al dente spaghetti in spicy tomato sauce, and the aglio e olio (angel hair with olive oil and tender cloves of garlic) gets a pleasant sweetness from sun-dried tomatoes. The list of reasonably priced domestic and Italian wines includes a velvety reserve Villa Claudia Chianti that goes well with the New York steak. Service is warm and efficient, but skip the outsourced desserts. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Sat.–Sun.