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Food Review Update: Blue Gingko



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Photo by Blue Gingko Yelp.com

As I dissected a piece of my intricately harmonious Diablo roll, an adjacent diner leaned in and told me, “This is the best Japanese restaurant within 20 miles.” I didn’t argue. Even knowing Blue Gingko’s sister restaurants Blue Gingko Blackhawk (15 miles away) and Sasa (less than five) are far more sophisticated, I believe this cozy original is the cheeriest. I hungrily observed the smiling sushi chef for a good long while after demolishing a tray of well-bronzed, delicate gyoza, but before I grumbled for more, exemplary nigiri—including saucy spiced scallops and firm translucent bass—arrived with a sashimi trio of thick-cut salmon, hamachi, and tuna. (This “chef’s choice” was perfectly fresh, if on the soft side.) The sake-friendly, moderately portioned izakaya menus echo most Japanese restaurants but have uncommon personality. And that subtly sweet-and-spicy Diablo roll, with its creamy avocado, crunchy shrimp, tiny tobiko, and slabs of ahi was delivered by a server both busy and bright. 3518 Mt. Diablo Blvd., (925) 962-9020, bluedeltarestaurantgroup.com. Lunch and dinner Mon.–Sat. $$

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