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This brick-walled Old Oakland spot is an ambitious cathedral of seasonal California cooking. The menu changes so quickly, the owners can't seem to keep up with its printing, but the hard-working waitstaff will tell you what's available. At lunch, try the fresh chicken salad on herb slab bread and salads with organic beets. At dinner, start with the oysters, so you'll have room for the spectacular entrées. On our visit, juicy pork chops and perfectly grilled New York steak both came with side dishes that flattered their flavor: a savory bread pudding for the chop; grilled red endive for the steak. The kitchen doesn't yet have perfect pitch-the flatbreads need work‹but the three young owners still hit more notes than they miss, and desserts, such as tea-infused crème brûlée, are lovingly house-made. Lunch Tues.-Fri., dinner Tues.-Sat.
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