A polished beef bone, cleanly split to reveal its rich marrow, is an appetizer that exemplifies Berevino’s bold approach to Italian and Mediterranean cuisine. Vested servers and a handsome dining room with vintage accents, recessed lighting, and a castle-sized chandelier echo that confidence. Two other gutsy appetizers include a colorful medley of roasted potatoes with lemon-garlic aioli, and fresh mozzarella presented dramatically on a long plate with beets and a thick ribbon of balsamic dressing. Our short rib pappardelle was delicious, while crispy cod with tomato compote came draped over cheese-rich polenta. Eggplant rustica, crowning a two-handled casserole dish filled with capellini, is parmigiana heaven. Craft cocktails and a wine list—berevino translates to “drink wine”—highlighting Italy and the Livermore Valley add more touches of class. 4590 Dublin Blvd., Dublin, (925) 361-0862, berevinocucina.com. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Sun.