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Like the mother ship that launched it, this Pizzaiolo satellite’s cuisine retains its earthy bearing. Simple blistered pizzas share space on the menu with an ever-changing list of restrained starters ranging from arugula and frisée with mint, toasted almonds and pecorino to local halibut tartar with belgian endive. The setting complements the rustic cooking. A wood fire glows from an open kitchen, whose counters are piled high with whatever seasonal bounty is being used that night. Those chicories you see will soon be roasted and tossed atop a pizza with Gorgonzola and butternut squash. Those sunchokes will join chanterelles in a hearty, chervil-garnished ragu. Though reservations aren’t taken and waits are common, the staff is friendly, and lively cocktails tide you over in the bar. Dessert brings a short list of familiar, homey dishes, which, like the restaurant, could fairly be described as out of this world. Lunch Tues.–Fri., dinner Tues.–Sun., weeknd brunch.
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