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After a tangle of succulent chicken wings and a Vietnamese-style sandwich packed with caramel-spiced shredded pork, we weren’t exactly clear on Broderick’s concept, but we were fans. It seems serving artisanal burgers (Niman Ranch beef, duck, and lamb patties) in a diner/saloon with high-decibel rock is just how this place rolls. Having started as a food truck, this third Broderick—two are in Sacramento—has grit (bison burgers, chili cheese fries) and zest (toasted marshmallow-coconut shake with vodka and Irish cream). Bready buns on $14 burgers can be a stretch, but the kitchen is finding its Walnut Creek groove. Like the venerable Hubcaps Diner it replaced, Broderick has a can-do attitude: The eatery even has a patty for vegans. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Sat.–Sun.
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