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Many of the creative dishes developed by Manresa alum James Syhabout and served at Commis will rock your world. The squash potage says farm to table—with a long, careful stop in the kitchen—and a visit from some fresh-out-of-the-drink bay shrimp. The lin cod also popped out of the deep blue that minute, before being cooked to crisp perfection, and its mussel liquor with vermouth was downright sexy. A soft farm egg with crisp pork jowl will ruin you for anything less fresh, flavorful, or deliciously fatty, although an accompanying smear of fermented black garlic didn’t appeal to us. Soft, warm rolls were a perfect vehicle for the to-die-for house-made butter. Commis’ menu is prix fixe—$75for three courses, plus $45 for paired wines—and the servers are quiet and respectful, like docents in a museum. On our visit, the desserts were challenging: a melon soup that could have been simpler and more fruity, and a black sesame cake. Next time, we’ll order three savory courses. Dinner Wed.–Sun.
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