This new Tuscan trattoria from Rivoli’s Wendy Brucker and Roscoe Skipper manages to more than hold its own against its Gourmet Ghetto neighbors, with a straightforward emphasis on amazing, beautifully prepared food. For starters, the tuna crudo tastes so fresh it seems as if it might flap around on your plate, while the salad of romaine lettuces sparkles with a belt-it-out anchovy vinaigrette. Pizzas are a must-try, offering crust so thin and delectable you could eat it like bread. Pastas shine as well, the knockout being the various panzotti. Desserts offer a fantastic endnote and include a chocolate budino and a creamy, dense gelato. Lunch Mon.–Fri., dinner daily, and brunch weekends.