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Martini Sky has fallen, but its replacement, Dana’s, is manna from heaven. Chef Preston Morris, who hails from Esin, turns out reliably good, often transcendent, and always alluring California-American fare. Morris’ zesty infused olive oil (to be mopped up with warm country bread) is a revelation. Mussels, presented as a petaled flower, are studded with Israeli couscous and suffused with lemon and garlic. And a meaty rib eye is assertively spiced and slathered in jus and truffle butter. With its contemporary lounge and upscale bistro ornamentation, Dana’s is an ambitious project for the owners of the perennially popular Mexican restaurant Luna Loca, a short stroll away. But then again, if you’re going to open a second restaurant, why not shoot for the moon? Lunch and dinner Tues.–Sun.
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