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When a couple of former Oliveto cooks opened Dopo as a tiny pizza place in 2003, it was constantly thronged. It still is, even though it has since taken over the redbrick space next door. The menu now includes several appetizers and pasta dishes, in addition to the wonderful thin-crust pizzas. Our visit included a plate of musky house-made salumi, crispy panfried sand dabs served with wild mushrooms and perfectly executed white wine sauce, and elegant Neapolitan-style lasagna. Don’t overlook calzones here. Few places still make this dish, and none as well as Dopo, which delivered ours with a golden crust and an addictive filling of cheese with Speck, garlic, and chilies. The wine list, printed on a map of Italy, is full of delights. Lunch and dinner Mon.–Sat.
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