Guillermo Cortez, a native of Oaxaca who worked his way up from a prep cook in American restaurant kitchens, opened his own eatery, Los Jarritos, in September 2004. Then he had to change the name to El Jarro when the Jarritos Mexican soda company sued him for copyright infringement. All struggles aside, Cortez and his brother Juan turn out tasty southern Mexican fare, from a torta Cancún-a soft French roll full of ripe avocado, melting cheese, and thinly sliced ham-to crispy cod served over tangy stewed nopalitos (cactus leaves). Classics such as chicken and beef burritos are well made, but we were surprised to find them filled with white rather than seasoned Spanish rice. Service has a relaxed, personal touch, and entrées come with healthy steamed vegetables. Lunch and dinner daily.