Small is beautiful at this simple but elegant 24-seat wine bar and small-plates restaurant. Just a couple blocks south of the Rockridge BART station, this mini food museum offers a short, often-changing list of Italian masterpieces, such as a tender house-made tagliatelle with a cooked-for-hours pork and beef ragu, and a beautifully seasoned braised lamb. Starters are nicely simple and often local, such as the Ocean Mist Farms artichokes, Marin Sun Farms duck liver pâté, and marinated local herring. The fennel, orange, and olive salad was slightly flat in the dressing department. But for dessert, flourless chocolate cake is a tender puff of heaven. Go wild on the reasonably priced all-Italian wines. Dinner Tues.–Sat.