When new baby brother Revel Kitchen and Bar arrived across town, Esin Restaurant and Bar could have had reason to be jealous. But we found Esin was still giving—and getting—plenty of love on a recent visit. It was busy, but we snagged a table on the wraparound patio, where we adored a crackery flatbread that was served with warm figs and aged blue cheese. This is one of Esin’s large small plates, which have price tags low enough (less than $15 each) to make Revel gulp. Rich spinach tagliatelle, a small-plate special on our visit, came bejeweled with baby chanterelles. The pork chop—a formidable proposition after one of those small plates—arrived over creamy, fresh-milled polenta. More delicate and equally delicious were the evening’s fish specials of cod and king salmon. In sum, Esin is better than ever. Perhaps Revel’s arrival has whetted its competitive juices. Lunch and dinner daily.