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The reinvented American fare is special at this restaurant in the remodeled Hotel Shattuck. The first sign came in a briskly delivered basket of warm herb biscuits. Then, we enjoyed a basil gimlet while taking in the high-ceilinged space. Once the food started arriving in earnest, it was a bean puree that knocked a braised pork belly appetizer out of the park. The oysters Rockefeller showed off bivalves fresh as a sea breeze. A “sandwich” of two slices of petrale sole, with crab mashed potatoes between, provided another delicious choice. The short rib pot roast was fall-apart tender, but we weren’t loving the stewed flavor. Many fresh, inventive sides appeared, including crisply fried artichoke hearts, and baby turnips and carrots in a chive butter sauce. A peach and nectarine crisp was overwhelmed by its brown sugar crust. Servers knew the menu and wine list inside and out, yet were friendly and fun. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily.
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