Chef Jeff Amber, who turned heads at Gigi in Lafayette, has brought serious artisanal pizza to the burbs. The crust has tang, and the toppings—made with pristine produce such as heirloom tomato, roasted corn, spinach, or even cauliflower—change with the season. Attached to Lunardi’s market, with a few outside tables, Forge is a downsized version of the sprawling original pizzeria in Jack London Square. But it still has a little urban cool, with a stark dining room and a simple bar, where you can nurse a pint while watching your pie burble in an 800-degree oven. Salads are as assertive as the smoke-kissed pizzas. Finish with a swirl of Straus soft-serve ice cream. Lunch and dinner daily.