Would you like your french fries with pancetta and Gorgonzola, or with truffle oil and parmesan? Now, that’s Italian American. Starters such as these are examples of the bold and simple dishes that set Forno Vecchio apart. Moist salmon redolent with rosemary is served with charred lemons and cheesy risotto. Brussels sprouts are heavily spiked with sherry vinegar and sun-dried tomatoes. And a caramel-rich chocolate pot de creme cries out for a strong cup of coffee. Chefs and owners have come and gone here, but the cozy atmosphere remains, as does Agustin, a sparkling waiter who has worked in this space a decade. (Forno Vecchio is just three years old.) Lunch Tues.–Fri., dinner Tues.–Sun., brunch Sat.