Whether you’re enthralled or intimidated by traditional Cantonese cuisine, you’ll rejoice in the utterly affordable Gum Kuo, an established Oakland restaurant with a second location now open in Dublin’s Fallon Gateway Shopping Center. The sleek, burnt-umber interior sets a welcoming tone for a menu full of delightful dishes that range from comforting to daring. Our delicate tofu and snappy pumpkin hot pot proved as healthful and restorative as chicken noodle soup. A whole crispy-skinned pompano was simply sauced and remarkably moist, while the chow fun, slick with egg and slippery shrimp, offered a ready foil for the pompano’s extra-spicy chile sauce. Finally, our bronzed duck, although it arrived at room temperature, was finger-friendly and truly succulent. That bone-in bird and whole fish will require some work—but it’s rewarding work indeed. Lunch and dinner daily.