“Handles” is an ode to the restaurant’s three dozen beers on tap—a line of pull handles that dazzles like a line of dancing girls. These are displayed in the restaurant’s relaxed and sprawling Public House, the favored place to eat. By contrast, a staid dining room appears designed for a ladies’ tea, the small space overlooking a magnificent patio. More pub than gastronomic, the gutsy menu showcases bur-
gers, BBQ wings, chicken potpie, and chili. There’s a nod to local and artisanal ingredients, but the subtlety is mostly drowned out (“Another beer, please!”). Still, it can work: the wedgey brings Point Reyes Original Blue and heirloom tomatoes to a classic iceberg lettuce salad. The fish and chips are made with fresh, moist seasonal fish, and a warm veggie sandwich shows off the local bounty. When you squish it all together, Handles is a family restaurant. There’s root beer on tap, kids’ menus come with crayons, and the grown-ups can relax. Lunch and dinner daily. Sunday brunch.