This little addition to the Uptown dining scene seasons its foodie sensibilities with a liberal helping of playfulness—to dazzling results. Chef-owner Kyle Itani experiments freely with the textures and tastes of his hearty diner fare, made more compelling by frequent Japanese-inspired twists. (He worked at Yoshi’s.) Start with an ever-evolving little gem salad spiked with fun seasonal touches (tarragon croutons and plucky sea beans, a type of succulent, on our visit). Seafood lovers will dig the oysters—served raw with sea urchin, salmon roe, and citrus soy—and don’t miss the beer-steamed clams in a deliciously rich broth made meaty by the addition of fall-apart-tender lamb. The first base burger (topped with griddled beef tongue) was a little intense for our taste, but certainly kept our attention. And we had zero complaints with the sweet, miso-glazed sea bass perfectly balanced by bright sautéed pea shoots and savory salt cod–stuffed squash blossoms. Cocktails are a must-try, too. Lunch and dinner Tues.–Sun., weekend brunch.