A longtime chef at Yoshi’s in Oakland, Shotaro Kamio’s welcoming restaurant is modern with food to match. It’s both hearty and elegant—presentations are gorgeous—with a menu that’s influenced by the simple, rustic flavors of Kamio’s native northern Japan. Buttery sea urchin, salmon roe, and scallops, with an accent of shiso and truffle oil, come together for an explosion of seafood flavor in ocean umami. The broth in his silken agedashi tofu is sublime, balancing earthy mushrooms and lotus root with briny seaweed and bonito flakes. Don’t miss the okonomi pancake made with savoy cabbage and Dungeness crab: It’s Japanese comfort food at its best. Lunch Mon. and Wed.–Fri., dinner Wed.–Mon.