Akira Komine, a native of Tokyo, opened Kirala in 1989, and it seems there’s been a line out the door ever since. The 89-seat restaurant doesn’t take reservations because diners will wait hours for the restaurant’s pristine sushi and crispy robata (grilled) entrées. Service is rushed, and it’s like pulling teeth to get explanations of the menu, but take heart: You can’t go wrong. Tender sliced toro of bluefin tuna disappears too quickly; sesame seeds give the perfectly dressed seaweed salad bursts of texture; and the tuna poke, beautifully encircled in a thin ribbon of cucumber, gets so much flavor from soy sauce, scallions, sesame oil, and ground chilies, it’s irresistible. Don’t forget the robata: Miso-marinated black cod is succulent and caramelized by the grill. Lunch Mon.–Fri., dinner daily.