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This Ulferts Center eatery is the casual offshoot of Koi Palace, the large dim sum house that is the flagship restaurant of the shopping mall. Willy Ng, who owns both places, made his name at Koi Palace in Daly City, an establishment revered throughout the Bay Area for its traditional Chinese cuisine. Express nails informal, tasty Chinese fare with its delicate shrimp fried rice; smoky honey-glazed barbecued pork; and perfectly pan-fried seafood chow mein, loaded with crisp fresh calamari, shrimp, and scallops. Noodle soups, which the kitchen makes with slowly simmered broths, are also winners. The dining room, with its cherrywood chairs and large windows, is spare, but service is prompt and the food is always fabulously fresh and judiciously seasoned. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Sat.–Sun.
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