There is plenty of sushi-roll eye candy on Kurumi’s glossy 10-page menu, so I nearly overlooked the delicious “monkey brains.” But more on that later. Formerly Izakaya Jun, Kurumi has wisely left the cozy dining room’s humble-but-graceful decor all but untouched. The new staff is charming and the fresh fish a cut above. Sitting at the 13-seat sushi bar, we indulged in the display’s most enticing fish—hamachi: as thick sashimi; sliced thin with a delicate yuzu sauce (and fiery rounds of jalapeño); and finally as succulent kama—broiled on the bone. That “monkey brains” turned out to be fried avocado stuffed with spicy tuna, cut into lobes, and laced with an array of sweet and spicy sauces. It was even better than the “heart”—a decadent, vivid-red, heart-shaped chocolate mousse cake. Lunch and dinner daily.