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The new chef at the Claremont Hotel, Club and Spa’s signature restaurant, Meritage, is a master of presentation. Scott Quinn’s dishes are works of art: a centerpiece sculpture of duck breast sliced into rectangles and laid over grilled Belgian endive, an impressionistic smear of vanilla parsnip mousseline, accents of Cara Cara orange, all framed by dots and swooshes of huckleberry gastrique. Even the menu is carefully crafted, organized by wine category, with the appetizers and entrées that pair well with each varietal listed alongside. On the palate, the artistic exercise in contrasts does not always translate, such as with the baby beet salad, in which chunks of red and gold beets are nestled in Point Reyes blue cheese mousse and toasted pistachios—but overpowered by enveloping slices of prosciutto. A fluffy chocolate soufflé with rich vanilla bean crème anglaise restores all taste buds to contentment. Breakfast daily, dinner Tues.–Sat., brunch Sun.
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