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Restaurateur Jack Moore and chef Mark Lusardi have brought city chic to a Lafayette shopping center. The formula worked for Diablo’s Food Award judges, who made Metro a winner mere months after it opened. The decor is minimal, the better to see the simply but beautifully composed food: a fish tartare appetizer dressed in platinum-quality olive oil and fresh herbs; a seasonal bruschetta of goat cheese, red onions, hazelnuts, and plump grilled peaches; a knockout Caesar salad. Also great are the silky white bean soup and a decidedly Asian miso-marinated black cod entrée. The drinks list is a first-string lineup including cocktails, esoteric wines by the glass, and aperitifs. Service is professional, with only the occasional flaw. Don’t miss the rich chocolate sundae at dessert. Lunch and dinner Tues.–Sun., brunch Sat.–Sun.
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