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Owner-chef Sarah Kirnon has built up a reputation for her quality comfort cuisine, but Miss Ollie’s is her first solo project. She nails it. The Barbados-raised Kirnon’s interpretations of her native Caribbean fare manage a refined soulfulness, a balancing act illustrated in her salt fish and ackee fruit. A Jamaican specialty, the fish provides an intense savory bite balanced by the farm-fresh sautéed sweet peppers and caramelized plantains. It’s a dish that could have become jumbled flavor-wise but shines under Kirnon’s expert hand. The fried chicken is some of the best we’ve tried: tender chicken wrapped in a seasoned batter. Don’t miss the “doubles” sandwich, a vegan spin on the popular Trinidad and Tobago street food that consists of a spicy chickpea-squash mash between hearty bara bread (flat fried bread). The vibe is hip, decor is industrial chic with splashes of Caribbean color, and prices are more than reasonable. Lunch and dinner Tues.–Sat.
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