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Since the affable Ed Moresi of Ed¹s Mudville Grill opened this restaurant in June, an eager local clientele has flocked to its spacious porch to sip oversized cocktails and relax. Inside, tasteful black and gray decor and 1920s jazz greet them. The main attraction, though, is the beef. We loved the juicy, peppery, fire-roasted strip loin appetizer, and an expertly grilled New York steak made for a tasty entrée‹both are standard corn-fed Midwestern beef. Service is timely and enthusiastic, but don¹t let the waitstaff sell you on the overbreaded, pale calamari (although we loved the tangy house-made pickled coleslaw that came with it). Also, the sides aren¹t up to the quality of the steaks; for example, the creamed corn seasoned with cubed ham isn¹t made from fresh ears, even during peak corn season.
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