After 15 years in Carmel running Bistro 211, Jon Magnusson has brought the silky, cold-smoked salmon he’s famous for to the Tri-Valley. Born in Iceland, Magnusson borrows freely from Italian, French, and American traditions, specializing in comfort foods with just a touch of California froufrou. Check out Nonni’s warm goat cheese crepes, capery bistro steak salad, and, of course, anything with smoky lox, made with sustainable Loch Duart salmon from Scotland. Attentive service, unpretentious plates, and a family-friendly spirit make Nonni’s—that’s Icelandic for “Jon’s”—a Main Street contender, although a lack of care in the kitchen (oily gnocchi, thin beef stroganoff), showed in the opening weeks. Lunch and dinner daily.