The spiral staircase connecting Oliveto’s lively all-day café to the tastefully renovated and well-run dining room is symbolic of the restaurant’s seemingly limitless ascension. With a commitment to seasonal and sustainable simplicity, Oliveto has spawned such notable chefs as Paul Bertolli (founder of Fra’ Mani Handcrafted Foods) and Paul Canales (chef-owner of Duende). Now, chef Jonah Rhodehamel’s deft touch takes the daily-changing menu to new heights. A sublime salad of roasted winter vegetables, including sweet baby turnips, is offset by a creamy, Caesar-like dressing. Silky Burrata becomes a foil to citrus and bitter radicchio. And buttery house-made pappardelle is laced with supple slices of rabbit. Entrées are remarkably generous. The rib eye steak, smoky from the grill, is sliced thick and fanned upward. Impossibly tender pigeon is served rare while the skin on a filet of pristine striped bass is crackle crisp. Simply put, this 28-year-old nationally revered neighborhood restaurant remains utterly fresh. Restaurant: Lunch Mon.–Fri., dinner daily. Café: Lunch and dinner daily.