Nan Yang was beloved in this Rockridge location for decades, so its replacement, Osmanthus, had big woks to fill. Chef Julia Klein’s fresh and modern approach does this admirably. The design brings timeless Asian touches to a French bistro sensibility, reflecting the tweaks Klein makes to classic Chinese cuisine. The tea-leaf salad surpasses even the legendary version at Oakland’s Burma Superstar. Klein’s smoked trout fried rice is revelatory. And the brilliant sweet-sour-hot charred brussels sprouts exemplify this trendy dish. Noodle dishes are good, too, especially those topped with crackly fried garlic slivers. Enthusiastic service and a varied beverage list, tailored to the spicy food, seal the deal. Lunch and dinner Tues.–Sun.