Chef Wendy Brucker has been packing the house at her cozy two-room restaurant ever since she opened in 1994. Her portobello mushroom fritters, with their crisp coating, sprinkling of parmesan, and bracing caper vinaigrette, are legend. They're the perfect introduction to Brucker's imaginative California-Mediterranean cuisine. We were dubious of ricotta and leek ravioli dressed in a braised lamb sauce and sprinkled with spiced chickpeas, but the North-Africa-meets-Italy entrée came off elegantly. The silken, fresh pasta filled with tender ricotta was a pillow of mellow flavors, and the deeply flavored accompaniments were the perfect foil. You'll find plenty of excitement on the wine list, too, and if you're lucky, you may spy the restaurant's two non-spraying 'pet' skunks in the backyard garden. Dinner daily.