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5421 College Ave., (510) 655-0889, soifour.com. This cool-cat sophisticate seems to be losing its edge and making avoidable mistakes, such as serving weary mesclun greens and tough meat. The place still looks the part of a hipster hangout, with its airy, high-ceilinged dining room and sparse touches of jungle vegetation. And some dishes on its extensive, varied menu are well worth a try. Any of the six types of satay will do you (nine for lunch): chicken, steak cubes, mushroom, eggplant, scallops, and calamari. The stir-fried tiger prawns are also a knockout, their succulence accentuated by a complex accompaniment of spices. The wine list is interesting, especially for an Asian restaurant; selections range from Riesling Kabinett to a Fisticuffs 2007 Cabernet. An expanded beer list includes 12 offerings from Mexican to Asian brands. Lunch Mon.–Fri, dinner nightly.
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