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With its ultramodern lounge, Zen-like patio, multiple dining venues, and shoulder-to-shoulder bar with 50-plus taps of beer and wine, Sunol Ridge holds wide appeal. Now, with the arrival of chef Evan Perlick, the food has also become accessible. The opening chef was a wizard of molecular gastronomy, but his dazzling presentations and menu’s eclectic terminology were at odds with the restaurant’s free-flowing spirit. Perlick, who hails from Michael Mina’s Arcadia in San Jose, has sophisticated tastes but a homier style, with hearty entrées such as short rib shepherd’s pie, and a bar menu that includes lush pork belly sliders and delicate house-made chips with retro onion dip. Bold, contrasting elements, such as the tiny sweet currants and briny capers garnishing seared diver scallops, work well with craft beer and fine wine alike. Lunch Tues.–Sun., dinner daily.
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