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Yokohama has been serving great sushi for years, but new owner Sean Choi and his brother, June Son, have sharpened the chopsticks with a jazzy marquee and a revamped menu. During our visit, they were testing out a range of yakitori skewers, and perfecting their “new style” hamachi Choi and Son seared with garlic-infused olive oil. Choi’s refreshing tonkatsu with udon noodles—featuring crispy crunchy chicken and pickled vegetables in a brilliant broth—is ideal for sweltering days and hot summer nights. The decadent Drunken Fish roll, packed with shrimp tempura, unagi, crab salad, and avocado, is a romantic nod to the sushi bar where Choi and his wife met in Oakland.
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