We’ve seen many restaurants come and go in this seemingly prime downtown locale, so when it was recently taken over by the owner of Piazza Pellegrini in North Beach, we licked our chops. Cold-weather meat dishes such as veal and lamb shanks are highlights on the menu, but the focus here is on pizzas and pastas—some three dozen in all—including house-made pappardelle folded into a rich ragu of slow-braised short ribs. If you want something lighter, skip the seafood dishes and consider Pellegrini’s snappy fennel and pistachio salad, or the delicate carpaccio with truffle-scented arugula. The taverna’s newly upscale decor is another plus, lending an inviting flavor to the cavernous space. Lunch and dinner daily.