This one-of-a-kind waterfront restaurant manages a mix of funky and fine dining, and offers huge portions of surprisingly good food: Even the bread is exceptional. (It’s Acme.) Skip the enormous platters of sizzling seafood and sky-high fried-fish sandwiches, and get what we like to call “the slab-and-crab”—an off-the-hook combo of slow-roasted peppery prime rib and whole-roasted Dungeness crab. The buttery garlic noodles and crab Louis are some of the best in Contra Costa County. This venerable restaurant offers a windswept patio with cabanalike shelters, a marble bar and lounge with dangling model airplanes and boats, a small private room, and two main dining areas: one with killer views, the other a clubby retreat. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Sat.–Sun.