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A portrait of the king of Siam overlooks a dining room of distressed wood chairs and tables, evoking a Thailand of both glittery pride and quiet humility. Here, daikon, the humblest of vegetables, is given royal treatment as an appetizer “cake”: Darkly seared, its flesh custardy, the radish turns radiant. Crispy, crackling sole is raised on an emerald bed of simply steamed bok choy, the whole bathed in caramelized tamarind-chile sauce. The short ribs, which come with peanuts, are a bit fatty, but the chicken sate is transcendent. Green curry and gra prow kai dow (minced chicken with fried egg) are good examples of Thai street food, with cheap prices to match. Check out the coconut juice and green tea crème brûlée. Lunch and dinner Mon.–Sat.
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