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This tightly packed, family-style Italian eatery has a frenzied atmosphere. Waiters squeeze between tables, and cooks work so furiously that lemon wedges still bear their packinghouse stickers. Waits can get long, and once you’re seated, you have to be careful not to fill up on the Franciscan-style sourdough bread served with the restaurant’s signature olive oil–garlic dip. We enjoyed a subtle, light chicken soup filled with angel hair pasta, linguine alla diavola served with a freshly caught whole Maine lobster, and chicken scarpariello in delicious lemon butter–caper sauce. But gnocchi in a frothy, bright green pesto were as chewy as rubber, and the so-called strawberry granita had the taste and texture of Smucker’s strawberry jam. Dinner daily.
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