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The San Ramon outlet of this popular Chinese restaurant has as elegant a dining room as the Lafayette location, and its menu includes the fusion appetizers developed at the Livermore location. Surprisingly smoky bits of pork flavor the hot-and-sour soup, but slippery canned mushrooms mar its texture. Peking spareribs, with crisp exteriors and tender centers, are a scrumptious, candylike treat. Also excellent is the yu shiang eggplant, silky-fleshed eggplant that’s fried to a golden brown and tossed with a dark, chili-flecked garlic glaze. Cashew chicken, which isn’t too greasy, has a mellow flavor and pleasant crunch from the nuts and water chestnuts. The only dish that fell short on our visit was the droopy chow mein full of oxidized cabbage. Service is cordial and prompt. Lunch and dinner daily.
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